The Casting Process in divided into three sub processes - Investment, Burn Out and Casting. Casting is done by placing the wax tree in a flask. A casting powder is mixed with water and is filled in a flask. The flask is kept at a place so that the powder can become dry and harden. The flask is then placed in a furnace at high temperature for 12 to 14 hours. After that, the flask is taken out and placed in the vacuum pressure casting machine adjusting the temperature. Various metals and gold karats require different temperatures for casting.
All the powder attached to the flask is removed resulting in only the required metal on the tree. The gold is then cleaned and placed in a ultra machine in which the liquid heat clears if any powder remains in the gold tree. After the final wash is done, the tree is handed over for the cutting process.
This department receives the casted piece after it is checked from the gold control department. This department uses various tools to grind the pieces and flatten the sides i.e. the wheel part of the Rings into proper shape of the jewelry. Different tools as well as machines are required for the physical changes of the jewelry.
This department gets the jewelry piece from the grinding department. The required changes are made to the piece to give it a proper shape as per the design. In Earrings the posts are fitted as well as if there are different parts of jewelry, they are fitted in this department with the help of various tools. The pieces are then cleaned in a magnetic polisher and checked thoroughly. Some of the pieces are also modified with the help of the laser machine.
Polishing the metal before the diamonds are set by hand is called pre-polishing. Pre-polishing the diamond setting part helps to get more fire of the set diamond and also to remove the roughness behind the diamond. Pre-polishing is also done since after setting or fitting the head or back plate, the area cannot be polished.
The Setting department fixes or sets the diamonds in the pieces after it is checked from the pre-polish department. There are many types of settings which are:
a) Prong - In this classic setting, two or more prongs wrap around the crown of a stone to secure it in place. Also known as the claw setting, this mounting style minimizes the amount of metal used, allowing more light to pass through a diamond or gemstone.
b) Pave - A metal rim surrounds the diamond or gemstone by the girdle to secure it in place. This dramatic setting style can create the illusion of a larger stone.
c) Channel - Diamonds or gemstones are secured in place between vertical metal walls, creating a smooth channel. In this contemporary setting, the diamonds are placed side by side with no metal in between.
d) Bezel - In this setting, diamonds or gemstones are set low and very close together by using tiny beads.
e) Flush - In this setting diamonds or gemstones are sunk into the mounting until they are nearly level or flush with the surface.
Polishing is done to finish the pieces by maintaining, give final shape and to remove filing and to give shine to the piece. Polishing is the last department to finish the pieces. After polishing, the piece gets a shine which makes the piece look more attractive. There are a lot of tools used to aid in the polishing the piece.
After the pieces are polished, they are cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner machine which will remove the dust even from the small gaps in the pieces.
Electroplating is done on the surface of the pieces. In electroplating, an ironic metal is supplied with electrons to form a non-ionic coating. Masking is also done before rhodium. In masking, lacquer is applied on the area of the metal piece where they don't want to do rhodium. So the rhodium also reacts on the uncovered area and makes it shine and give the required color. The lacquer is then removed after the rhodium is done. After the rhodium plating the piece gets a very attractive shine. Rhodium plating is done in five different colors of white, yellow, pink, blue and black. After masking, the metal pieces are first dipped in a solution to remove any dust or oily marks on the piece.